Frequently Asked Questions
Is there an easy way to tell if my alternator is correctly sized for my vehicle?
Yes, assuming you have access to a volt meter. Set the meter to read DC Voltage and connect it to the battery (you should measure between 12.6 and 12.8 VDC). Have a helper start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Then, have your helper turn on all of the accessories - A/C or heater, headlights (brights), electric water pump, electric fan(s), etc. If you measure below 13.4 VDC, the alternator does not make enough current at idle to support the accessories and keep a surface charge on the battery. This process is outlined fully in Chapters 2 and 5 of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems, Volume 2: Projects.
How big of an alternator do I really need?
Bigger than you think! Select an alternator based on its performance and reliability first, cosmetics second. Chrome won't get you home - certainly not when it comes to alternators. You should choose your alternator based on a criteria that most of the mainstream alternator manufacturers don't talk much about - output at idle. Look at it like this - you really need your alternator the most when you're idling at a traffic light. For alternators, idle is defined as 800 engine RPM and it should be pullied to spin at 3X crankshaft speed for correct operation. It is not uncommon to require 100 to 125 amps (or even more) at idle if you're running electric fans, an electric fuel pump, EFI, etc. Running too small of an alternator is the #1 mistake made by enthusiasts. This process is outlined fully in Chapter 5 of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems, Volume 2: Projects.
Is a 1-wire alternator better than a 3-wire?
No. A traditional 1-wire (or self-exciting) alternator is simpler to wire, but a 3-wire isn't really all that difficult at all. Traditional 1-wire alternators typically require about 1200 engine RPM for the regulator to be excited. If you get stuck at a traffic light for any length of time, a traditional 1-wire alternator will typically also un-excite when RPM is below that threshold (for even a short time at idle) causing your alternator to go into hibernation until you get underway and re-excite the regulator. A 3-wire alternator excites the moment the key is in the Ignition / Run position. In addition, some 3-wire alternators have a sense lead that can be interfaced at a power junction, like an under hood fuse panel or hot spot, so that the regulator can adjust the output voltage in unison with the demands of the vehicle accessories.
Do you sell Big Three Upgrade kits?
Yes. The "Big Three" or "Big 3" is car audio slang for upgrading the charge lead from the alternator to the battery, upgrading the ground from the engine to the battery, and upgrading the ground from the battery to vehicle chassis. The idea is to improve the performance of your charging system with respect to your audio system as well as pave the way for the installation of a high output alternator. Our Big Three Upgrade Kits are the best that money can buy.
Which is better, crimping or soldering?
Both are good methods for making connections in vehicles. Either way, it's imperative that you use the correct tool for the job and use it correctly. Poor connections are the number one problem that most enthusiasts face when tackling electrical projects. For this reason, every pre-assembled kit that we sell requires no specialized electrical tools as all of the terminations are done in house. Should you elect to do this part yourself, we cannot recommend strongly enough that you invest in quality Tools. In addition, our Master Electrical Terminal Kit includes over 800 pieces so that you can get the job done right.
I don’t own the correct crimping tool for the job. Can you terminate plugs, eyelets, or terminals on cable that I purchase for a specific application?
Absolutely. We happily provide this service for a nominal fee. We also sell a small selection of very high quality Crimping Tools.
