Frequently Asked Questions

Q – How will you ship my order?
A – We use USPS Priority Mail for 90% of our US shipments. Priority Mail is 2-3 days on average to any US Shipping address. When an item or the entire order is too large to be shipped via Priority Mail, we’ll ship it via UPS Ground Transit.

Q – Do you ship internationally?
A – Yes!  We ship most international shipments via the USPS.  Duties and taxes may be charged by your country’s customs or border patrol – this is not factored into the shipping costs and is the responsibility of the recipient.  Some international shipments are experiencing much longer than usual delivery times due to the pandemic – check with your local postal service to confirm.
Update 6/27/22 – Due to delays with international shipments via all traditional methods, we strongly encourage you to consider a freight forwarder!

Q – I’ve entered my order but haven’t received a confirmation email, tracking number, etc. So, what gives?
ATracking Your Order

Q – What is your return policy?
A – For 90 days from the date of purchase, we allow returns for all products excepting the below*.  Products returned to us must be unused, uninstalled, and must be able to be restocked and sold as new.  Products which are pre-packaged by the manufacturer must be unopened and in the original packaging.  We charge a 15% restocking fee for such returns to cover our costs in receiving, handling, restocking, and payment processing fees.

*Ineligible items include custom cables, cable by the foot, kits with cables cut to length, wire by the foot, split loom tubing, split braided tubing, tools, and any item of a custom nature.

Q – How large a cable do I need for a given project?
A – Cable size is a function of current and length. All cable, no matter how large, has a given amount of resistance per foot. Resistance is the opposition to the flow of electrons (current). The net result is voltage drop over the length of the cable. Minimizing voltage drop is the key to designing and constructing reliable circuits and optimizing their performance. A handy reference chart for choosing the correct gauge of wire based on these parameters can be found on page 100 of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems.

Q – What is the difference between CCA and standard copper cable?
A – Many companies are now marketing CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) cable as a lightweight, less expensive alternative to copper. It is true, CCA does in fact weigh less than standard copper but there is no such thing as a free lunch – it also has higher resistance per foot than comparably sized copper. Third party testing has proven CCA passes 30 to 40% LESS power than traditional copper of the same size! Skimping on copper is not where you want to save money (or weight) in your projects.

Q – I use an electric fan. My vehicle runs hot and I’ve tried nearly everything to no avail. What can I do so that I can drive it on the street without fear of it overheating?
A – This may be the most common question we’re asked. When it comes to keeping a high performance engine running cool, the electrical system plays a major role. Aside from audio power amplifiers, electric cooling fans are the most current hungry accessory in a vehicle and they require a continuous supply of current. A quality 13″ fan typically requires 20-25 Amps of current while running and up to four times that when it’s first turned on (hence the dimming dash lights).  Ultimately, this has led us to develop our own line of high performance Fan Relay Kits unlike anything else on the market.  In addition, it’s critical that the idle output capability of the alternator is satisfactory, the gauge of the alternator’s charge lead is suitable, and that you have a low resistance return path between the fans and the charging system.  This led us to develop our own line of high performance Alternator Installation Kits.  Optimizing each will help your vehicle to run cool on the street.  Incidentally, these problems and their solutions are outlined in their entirety in Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems, Volume 2: Projects.

Q – Is there an easy way to tell if my alternator is correctly sized for my vehicle?
A – Yes, assuming you have access to a volt meter. Set the meter to read DC Voltage and connect it to the battery (you should measure between 12.6 and 12.8 VDC). Have a helper start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Then, have your helper turn on all of the accessories – A/C or heater, headlights (brights), electric water pump, electric fan(s), etc. If you measure below 13.4 VDC, the alternator does not make enough current at idle to support the accessories and keep a surface charge on the battery. This process is outlined fully in Chapters 2 and 5 of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems, Volume 2: Projects.

Q – How big of an alternator do I really need?
A – Bigger than you think! Select an alternator based on its performance and reliability first, cosmetics second. Chrome won’t get you home – certainly not when it comes to alternators. You should choose your alternator based on a criteria that most of the mainstream alternator manufacturers don’t talk much about – output at idle. Look at it like this – you really need your alternator the most when you’re idling at a traffic light. For alternators, idle is defined as 800 engine RPM and it should be pullied to spin at 3X crankshaft speed for correct operation. It is not uncommon to require 100 to 125 amps (or even more) at idle if you’re running electric fans, an electric fuel pump, EFI, etc. Running too small of an alternator is the #1 mistake made by enthusiasts. This process is outlined fully in Chapter 5 of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems, Volume 2: Projects.

Q – Is a 1-wire alternator better than a 3-wire?
A – No. A traditional 1-wire (or self-exciting) alternator is simpler to wire, but a 3-wire isn’t really all that difficult at all. Traditional 1-wire alternators typically require about 1200 engine RPM for the regulator to be excited. If you get stuck at a traffic light for any length of time, a traditional 1-wire alternator will typically also un-excite when RPM is below that threshold (for even a short time at idle) causing your alternator to go into hibernation until you get underway and re-excite the regulator. A 3-wire alternator excites the moment the key is in the Ignition / Run position. In addition, 3-wire alternators have a sense lead that can be interfaced at a power junction, like an under hood fuse panel or hot spot, so that the regulator can adjust the output voltage in unison with the demands of the vehicle accessories. Having said that, the Mechman Hot Rod Alternators, an all new 1-wire design, are designed to self-excite at 400 engine RPM, completely eliminating the problem outlined above.

Q – Do you sell Big Three Upgrade kits?
A – Yes. The “Big Three” or “Big 3” is car audio slang for upgrading the charge lead from the alternator to the battery, upgrading the ground from the engine to the battery, and upgrading the ground from the battery to vehicle chassis. The idea is to improve the performance of your charging system with respect to your audio system as well as pave the way for the installation of a high output alternator. Our Big Three Upgrade Kits are the best that money can buy.

Q – Which is better, crimping or soldering?
A – Both are good methods for making connections in vehicles. Either way, it’s imperative that you use the correct tool for the job and use it correctly. Poor connections are the number one problem that most enthusiasts face when tackling electrical projects. For this reason, every pre-assembled kit that we sell requires no specialized electrical tools as all of the terminations are done in house. Should you elect to do this part yourself, we cannot recommend strongly enough that you invest in quality Tools. In addition, our Master Electrical Terminal Kit includes over 800 pieces so that you can get the job done right.

Q – I don’t own the correct crimping tool for the job. Can you terminate plugs, eyelets, or terminals on cable that I purchase for a specific application?
A – Absolutely. We happily provide this service for a nominal fee. We also sell a small selection of very high quality Crimping Tools.

Q – Will you build a harness to suit my needs?
A – Yes. We do not build vehicle wiring harnesses, but we build application-specific harnesses all the time. For example, a harness for a pair of electric fans or a harness for high powered headlights on a UTV. There are no refunds on custom harnesses.

Q – Can I use your products in my boat?
A – In nearly all cases, yes. Our 2/0 AWG, 1/0 AWG, 2 AWG, 4 AWG, 6 AWG, and 8 AWG Battery Cable is BC-5W2 Marie Compliant. In addition, our Eyelets are tinned to prevent corrosion and oxidation and ideal for marine use. Solid terminations are vital in marine applications and we protect them from the elements with Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing.

Q – I can get relays for a couple bucks a piece. What’s the difference between those and yours?
A – Excellent question. The Tyco 30 Amp relays we sell are identical in design to the Bosch branded 30 Amp relays that we have used for over twenty years! [Tyco acquired the Bosch relay business.] In that time, we have used thousands of them and have never seen a single failure when the relay is installed correctly. The Tyco 40 Amp relays are built equally as well. In addition, we offer the industry standard in waterproof automotive relays – the Hella 40 Amp. Our selection of Relays is without question the finest available for automotive use. Contrast this to the cheap relays that we’ve removed hundreds of and replaced with better units to solve problems.

We Offer All of the Parts Required to Complete any Project, Large or Small!