After the Bulldog Canyon run, where there are many BIG rocks, I realized that on-board air would be nice. Air down the tires to minimize teeth-chattering impacts and allow them to contour to the boulders, then air them up to drive home. So, we ordered the following parts:
ARB Twin 12V Compressor, part # CKMTA12
ARB Mount Kit for 2018+ Jeep Wrangler JL, part # 3550220
(2) ARB Air Compressor Reinforced Hose, 1.5M, part # 0740204
ARB 90 degree 1/4″ NPT to JIC-4 Elbows (2pk), part # 0740110
ARB Hose Coupler, Remote Mount, part # 0740111
Viair one gallon Tank, part # 91010
It took me three different orders to figure that list out! One of the challenges is that ARB discontinued their one gallon tank, for which a bracket is included for in the 3550220 (bummer). So, I sourced the Viair tank and then had to wait until I figured out where to mount it to know what NPT to JIC-4 adapters would be best suited for the air line runs. Due to time constraints, I had to do this installation over the course of two different weekends.
In the middle of 2021, we decided a Jeep was the ideal next vehicle for us. So, we visited Jeep’s website, designed it to our specs, and ordered it up. We ordered it in white to be a blank canvas. We optioned it with the Xtreme Recon Package which adds 17″ beadlockers, 35″ tires, and a 2″ lift – right from Jeep. We also added the Trailer-Tow and Heavy Duty Electrical Group which includes the 240A alternator, 700A battery, Class II Receiver Hitch, 7 and 4-pin trailer harnesses, and auxiliary switch panel.
It arrived in March of 2022 – long delays due to parts shortages!
Note: This originally appeared in Volume 2, Number 2 of Street Rod Life Magazine.
Let’s start with the basics. Electrically speaking, ground is a point of commonality and nothing more. Since no automobile that I’ve seen has a rod driven into the ground next to it, where is ground in your car? Ask ten enthusiasts where ground is in their car and they’ll immediately point to the negative battery terminal. Are they correct? No. Let me explain.
All can be easily accessed via the Custom Cables menu above. Each allows you to quickly design and order cables to fit your application perfectly! In addition, you’re able to see each cable come together live as you build it. Furthermore, the very image you see of your cable design is exported to your invoice when you click the ADD TO CART button and it’s what our production team builds from. The entire process is simple, and you get exactly what you see – whether on a desktop, tablet, or your phone. No other company is as serious about custom cables as we are!
Our custom cable builders allow you to build nearly any conceivable type of cable. Of course, there are seemingly endless approaches. Here are some guidelines that will help you to utilize them.
We are often asked, “How do I make my charging system bulletproof?” While there is no single answer, here are the three fundamental areas of focus.
Use Quality Parts, Sized to the Application
Sure, that’s why you’re here. Our site is full of the highest quality parts available and it’s our mission to ensure that you get the performance you’re looking for. It’s always less costly over the long haul to be realistic with yourself about the application and your expectations.
For example, if you’ve added a bunch of accessories to your vehicle which it was not originally equipped, the stock alternator may simply not be large enough. Helping you choose the correct size alternator, cables, etc – it’s what we do. So, you’ve done all that – what then?
Wow! There seems to be a ton of misinformation about this topic around. I’ve seen and heard some pretty far-fetched stuff. Keep in mind that all of our Big 3 Upgrade Kits are a direct reflection of our findings in regards to measured performance and our more than thirty years of experience in upgrading vehicle charging systems, not something we read on the Internet.
One of the most common questions we field is, “Which battery disconnect do I need?” In order to determine that, you need to know how you intend to use it. There are two main purposes:
Disconnect the battery when storing the vehicle. This convenience allows you to store the vehicle for an extended period of time without worry of the battery running flat due to parasitic draw of the accessories . ECUs, BCMs, PCMs, radios, clocks, etc. all draw a very small amount of current with the vehicle sitting to retain settings or data.
Pass tech at your local track. The NHRA and most other sanctioning bodies mandate a Battery Disconnect Switch that is clearly labeled and externally accessible for any vehicle with a battery that has been relocated to the rear of the vehicle. This affords the safety crew the ability to shut off a running engine and disconnect power to the vehicle’s accessories in the event of a crash, rollover, etc.